Coastal Geomorphology – Coastal Management

Course Description

Objectives

This course offers a comprehensive introduction to the fundamental principles of coastal geomorphology, exploring key concepts related to coastal environments. It examines the dynamic processes that shape coastal zones, including wave action, tides, coastal currents, sea-level variations, and aeolian (wind-driven) activities. Additionally, it delves into the formation and classification of coastal landforms, providing insights into the processes responsible for their development. A core objective of the course is to foster a thorough understanding of the coastal zone concept, emphasizing the interactions between natural processes and coastal landscapes, as well as addressing critical aspects of coastal zone management.

In the teaching of Coastal Geomorphology, it is essential to combine theoretical lectures with laboratory exercises. Laboratory exercises not only enhance familiarity with the concepts covered in theoretical lessons but also serve practical purposes. These include acquiring practical knowledge related to coastal processes, mastering methodologies for coastal geomorphological mapping, assessing coastal hazard risks, and conducting grain size analysis of sediment samples. During the semester, a one-day field trip is organized. The purpose of this field exercise is to familiarize students with the field, recognize coastal landforms, and integrate the theoretical knowledge acquired in the classroom.

Content

Theory: Basic concepts of coastal environments. Coastal processes, wave action, reflection, refraction, wave convergence, divergence, and diffraction, coastal currents, coastal circulation. Sea level, variations during the Upper Pleistocene and Holocene, isostatic and local causes of sea-level changes. Coastal landforms in rocky environments: coastal cliffs, notches, marine terraces, marine depositional landforms, loose material beaches, tombolos, beachrocks, river deltas. Coastal landforms in aeolian environments: coastal sandy dunes. Characteristics of the coastal microrelief, berms, beach cusps, and ripple marks. Sediment balance along the coastal zone, coastal erosion, and measures for coastal protection against erosion. Integrated coastal zone management.

Laboratory: The laboratory activities consist of four exercises tasks. These include: depicting wave characteristics in various coastal areas with different morphologies, mapping ancient shorelines on maps of Aegean islands, geomorphological mapping of river deltas using aerial photographs, and collecting coastal sediment samples followed by their granulometric analysis.

Teaching & Assessment

13 weeks of lectures and laboratory sessions, 3 hours per week (2 hours/week for theory and 1 hour/week for laboratory). Attendance at laboratory exercises is mandatory, and absences are recorded. Completed exercises are submitted after their respective lessons, usually on a weekly basis.

The assessment is based on written exams at the end of the semester (70%) and the evaluation of laboratory exercises (30%). A prerequisite for participation in the exams is the successful completion of all laboratory exercises (a total of 4).